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Ana jugore e Lhotse (Foto: Instagram\/uta_ibrahimi8000)<\/p>\nRevista Rock and Ice, e cila \u00ebsht\u00eb e dedikuar p\u00ebr alpinizmin, i ka kushtuar nj\u00eb artikull t\u00eb posa\u00e7\u00ebm alpinistes Uta Ibrahimi. N\u00eb artikullin e publikuar thuhet se ajo \u00ebsht\u00eb shqiptarja e par\u00eb nga Kosova q\u00eb \u00ebsht\u00eb ngjitur n\u00eb maj\u00ebn e Everestit dhe tash ka nj\u00eb projekt t\u00eb ri: Ajo do t\u00eb tentoj\u00eb t\u00eb ngjitet n\u00eb maj\u00ebn e kat\u00ebrt m\u00eb t\u00eb lart\u00eb n\u00eb bot\u00eb \u2013 Lhotse p\u00ebrmes nj\u00eb variacioni t\u00eb rrug\u00ebs Jerzy Kukuczka. P\u00ebr t\u00eb, nd\u00ebrmarrja e nj\u00ebr\u00ebs prej rrug\u00ebve m\u00eb t\u00eb v\u00ebshtira n\u00eb Himalaje do t\u00eb jet\u00eb nj\u00eb mund\u00ebsi jet\u00ebsore.<\/p>\n
Ajo kishte planifikuar t\u00eb pushonte n\u00eb pranver\u00eb dhe t\u00eb angazhohej p\u00ebr grumbullimin e fondeve p\u00ebr ekspeditat e t\u00eb ardhmes. Mir\u00ebpo, nj\u00eb ftes\u00eb personale nga Hong Sung Taek \u2013 nj\u00eb alpinist jugkorean dhe eksplorues i natyr\u00ebs \u2013 e kishte bindur Ut\u00ebn, pasi q\u00eb ajo nuk do ta humbte nj\u00eb shans p\u00ebr ta marr\u00eb k\u00ebt\u00eb rrug\u00ebtim me nj\u00eb njeri me p\u00ebrvoj\u00eb si ai (kjo do t\u00eb jet\u00eb p\u00ebrpjekja e gjasht\u00eb e tij p\u00ebr t\u2019u ngjitur kah ana jugore. N\u00eb vitin 2017, ai ishte kthyer 200 metra larg maj\u00ebs).<\/p>\n
Alpinistja jon\u00eb \u00ebsht\u00eb ngjitur n\u00eb Lhotse \u2013 n\u00eb malin e kat\u00ebrt m\u00eb t\u00eb lart\u00eb n\u00eb bot\u00eb n\u00eb 8.516 metra \u2013 n\u00eb vitin 2018, si pjes\u00eb e objektivit t\u00eb saj p\u00ebr t\u2019u ngjitur n\u00eb 14 majat m\u00eb t\u00eb larta n\u00eb bot\u00eb brenda shtat\u00eb vitesh (brenda dy vitesh \u00ebsht\u00eb ngjitur n\u00eb kat\u00ebr prej tyre).<\/p>\n
Ana jugore e Lhotse i ka heshtur alpinist\u00ebt e njohur, si Kukuczka, Reinhold Messner, Riccardo Cassin, Cristof Profit e shum\u00eb t\u00eb tjer\u00eb. Vet\u00ebm dy ekipe jan\u00eb ngjitur me sukses n\u00eb pjes\u00ebn jugore: Nj\u00eb ekspedit\u00eb ruse 18-an\u00ebtar\u00ebshe n\u00eb vitin 1990 dhe nj\u00eb ekip japonez i udh\u00ebhequr nga Osamu Tanabe n\u00eb vitin 2006. Ekipi i Tanabes p\u00ebr pak sa nuk e kishte p\u00ebrfunduar edhe ngjitjen e par\u00eb dim\u00ebrore n\u00eb k\u00ebt\u00eb maje, mir\u00ebpo ishte kthyer vet\u00ebm 41 metra larg kreut.<\/p>\n
V\u00ebshtir\u00ebsia e rrug\u00ebs q\u00ebndron n\u00eb murin prej akulli dhe shk\u00ebmbinjsh, t\u00eb lart\u00eb 3.300 metra, i cili n\u00eb disa pjes\u00eb \u00ebsht\u00eb thuajse krejt\u00ebsisht vertikal. K\u00ebsaj i shtohet edhe moti i stuhish\u00ebm, rreziku nga ortek\u00ebt dhe r\u00ebnia e gur\u00ebve.
\nAna jugore e Lhotse (Foto: Instagram\/uta_ibrahimi8000)<\/p>\n
M\u00eb tej revista e p\u00ebrshkruan takimin me Ut\u00ebn n\u00eb Kolorado (ku ndodhej p\u00ebr t\u2019u st\u00ebrvitur p\u00ebr ngjitje n\u00eb akull, ngjitje t\u00eb kombinuar dhe p\u00ebrgatitje maksimale p\u00ebr lart\u00ebsi t\u00eb m\u00ebdha, duke qen\u00eb se Prishtina \u00ebsht\u00eb vet\u00ebm 600 metra lart\u00ebsi mbidetare) \u2013 p\u00ebr t\u00eb biseduar me t\u00eb dhe p\u00ebr t\u00eb m\u00ebsuar m\u00eb shum\u00eb rreth ekspedit\u00ebs.<\/p>\n
\u201cNj\u00eb dit\u00eb tipik\u00eb p\u00ebrb\u00ebhet nga vrapimi i m\u00ebngjesit, gjasht\u00eb or\u00eb ngjitje n\u00eb akull dhe dy or\u00eb ushtrime me pesha n\u00eb mbr\u00ebmje\u201d, shkruan Rock and Ice p\u00ebr Ut\u00ebn duke shtuar se ajo ishte e k\u00ebndshme gjat\u00eb bised\u00ebs.<\/p>\n
\u201cNga tokat e rrafsh\u00ebta t\u00eb vendlindjes s\u00eb saj deri n\u00eb majat e bot\u00ebs, Ibrahimi po merr sfida dramatike p\u00ebr vetveten dhe vendin e saj\u201d, thuhet m\u00eb tej.<\/p>\n
Kosova s\u00eb fundmi e ka festuar p\u00ebrvjetorin e 11-t\u00eb m\u00eb 17 shkurt. Popullata e saj \u00ebsht\u00eb shum\u00eb e re \u2013 70 p\u00ebr qind e banor\u00ebve jan\u00eb n\u00ebn mosh\u00ebn 35 vje\u00e7are. \u00c7far\u00eb do t\u00eb thot\u00eb p\u00ebr nj\u00eb vend aq t\u00eb ri q\u00eb t\u00eb ka ty q\u00eb po i b\u00ebn k\u00ebto arritje heroike n\u00eb male?<\/p>\n
\u201cKur u nisa p\u00ebr t\u2019u ngjitur n\u00eb Everest, trajneri dhe mb\u00ebshtet\u00ebsi im, Xhimi Begeja, m\u00eb tha: \u2018Po e b\u00ebn nj\u00eb ekspedit\u00eb q\u00eb nuk \u00ebsht\u00eb m\u00eb vet\u00ebm e jotja, do t\u00eb jet\u00eb dicka shum\u00eb, shum\u00eb m\u00eb e madhe\u2019. Po, po arrij majat 8.000 met\u00ebrshe, \u00ebsht\u00eb nj\u00eb projekt i madh, por jo edhe aq, aq i madh, sepse ka shum\u00eb njer\u00ebz q\u00eb tashm\u00eb e kan\u00eb arritur. Por, duke qen\u00eb nga nj\u00eb vend i vog\u00ebl, pa shum\u00eb p\u00ebrvoj\u00eb n\u00eb alpiniz\u00ebm, kjo nuk ka t\u00eb b\u00ebj\u00eb vet\u00ebm me mua, kjo \u00ebsht\u00eb p\u00ebr vendin tim\u201d.<\/p>\n
\u201cN\u00eb vitin 2016, kur shkova n\u00eb zyr\u00ebn p\u00ebr t\u00eb marr\u00eb leje p\u00ebr t\u2019u ngjitur n\u00eb Nepal, Kosova nuk gjendej n\u00eb list\u00ebn e shteteve t\u00eb miratuara (askush nuk \u00ebsht\u00eb ngjitur k\u00ebtu m\u00eb par\u00eb). Kjo ishte hera e par\u00eb kur flamuri i Kosov\u00ebs ishte n\u00eb maj\u00ebn e bot\u00ebs\u201d.<\/p>\n
\u201cN\u00eb Kosov\u00eb nuk kemi shum\u00eb shembuj p\u00ebr t\u00eb ndjekur, sidomos n\u00eb alpiniz\u00ebm. M\u00eb \u00ebsht\u00eb dashur t\u00eb p\u00ebrballem me shum\u00eb sfida duke qen\u00eb fem\u00ebr, n\u00eb ve\u00e7anti n\u00eb alpiniz\u00ebm. Ka barriera, nj\u00eb mendim se \u201cmalet nuk jan\u00eb p\u00ebr femra\u201d dhe \u00ebsht\u00eb v\u00ebshtir\u00eb t\u00eb grumbullosh fonde. M\u00eb kan\u00eb th\u00ebn\u00eb: \u2018Pse t\u00eb t\u00eb ndihmoj p\u00ebr ta financuar hobin t\u00ebnd?\u201d.<\/p>\n
\u201cFatmir\u00ebsisht, u takova me Xhimi Begej\u00ebn, i cili ka qen\u00eb pjes\u00eb e ekipit t\u00eb par\u00eb shqiptar n\u00eb Everest dhe ka dashur t\u00eb organizoj\u00eb nj\u00eb ekspedit\u00eb me femra nga Kosova dhe Shqip\u00ebria. P\u00ebrfunduam duke u ngjitur n\u00eb vitin 2007 dhe ishim ekipi i par\u00eb nga Kosova q\u00eb e b\u00ebnte k\u00ebt\u00eb\u201d.<\/p>\n
\u201cPrandaj, p\u00ebrpiqem t\u2019i frym\u00ebzoj femrat tjera, jo vet\u00ebm q\u00eb t\u00eb b\u00ebhen alpiniste, por t\u00eb shkojn\u00eb drejt q\u00ebllimeve t\u00eb tyre. S\u00eb fundmi jam em\u00ebruar nga OKB Kampione p\u00ebr Zhvillimin e Objektivave t\u00eb Q\u00ebndruesh\u00ebm, n\u00eb m\u00ebnyr\u00eb q\u00eb t\u00eb vazhdoj pun\u00ebn e m\u00ebtutjeshme p\u00ebr barazin\u00eb gjinore dhe \u00e7\u00ebshtjet ambientale n\u00eb Ballkan dhe ta shp\u00ebrndaj k\u00ebt\u00eb mision sa m\u00eb shum\u00eb\u201d.<\/p>\n
Po e dyfishon ngjitjen n\u00eb Lhotse \u2013 p\u00ebr her\u00eb t\u00eb par\u00eb u ngjite n\u00eb vitin 2018. Pse do ta b\u00ebsh p\u00ebrs\u00ebri?<\/p>\n
N\u00eb n\u00ebntor t\u00eb vitit 2018, u ngjita n\u00eb AmaDablam (6.812 metra). Si pjes\u00eb e asaj ngjitjeje, p\u00ebr aklimatizim u ngjita n\u00eb Island Peak q\u00eb \u00ebsht\u00eb 6.300 metra dhe \u00ebsht\u00eb p\u00ebrball\u00eb fytyr\u00ebs s\u00eb Lhotse. Kaluam rreth 30 minuta atje n\u00eb maje duke b\u00ebr\u00eb shum\u00eb fotografi n\u00eb pjes\u00ebn jugore.<\/p>\n
\u201cFlisnim p\u00ebr t\u00eb, e diskutuam se sa v\u00ebshtir\u00eb \u00ebsht\u00eb. Thash: \u2018Uau, \u00ebsht\u00eb nj\u00eb fytyr\u00eb e mrekullueshme\u2019. POr, asnj\u00ebher\u00eb nuk kam menduar se do t\u00eb kthehesha dhe do t\u00eb ngjitesha prap\u00eb, \u00ebsht\u00eb shum\u00eb m\u00eb lart sesa \u00ebsht\u00eb niveli im\u201d.<\/p>\n
\u201cKur Hong m\u00eb kontaktoi (m\u00eb her\u00ebt gjat\u00eb k\u00ebtij viti), m\u00eb tha: \u2018Do t\u00eb d\u00ebshironim t\u00eb jesh n\u00eb ekipin ton\u00eb\u2019. Thash: \u2018H\u00ebm, ndoshta ky \u00ebsht\u00eb nj\u00eb shans i mir\u00eb p\u00ebr mua q\u00eb t\u00eb kaloj nga nj\u00eb nivel n\u00eb nj\u00eb tjet\u00ebr. Sepse ky \u00ebsht\u00eb nj\u00eb nivel krejt\u00ebsisht tjet\u00ebr\u201d.<\/p>\n
Nuk t\u00eb jepet shpesh nj\u00eb mund\u00ebsi e k\u00ebtill\u00eb q\u00eb t\u00eb ngjitesh me njer\u00ebz q\u00eb kan\u00eb shum\u00eb p\u00ebrvoj\u00eb \u2013 si Jorge (Egocheaga), i cili \u00ebsht\u00eb ngjitur n\u00eb t\u00eb gjitha majat 8.000 met\u00ebrshe dhe Luo Jing, nj\u00eb fem\u00ebr kinez, e cila n\u00eb vitin e kaluar p\u00ebrfundoi ngjitjen n\u00eb t\u00eb 14 majat 8.000 met\u00ebrshe. Si edhe Hong, i cili ka shum\u00eb p\u00ebrvoj\u00eb\u201d.<\/p>\n
\u201cN\u00eb nj\u00eb grup me vet\u00ebm n\u00ebnt\u00eb alpinist\u00eb , duhet t\u00eb b\u00ebjm\u00eb gjith\u00e7ka, t\u00eb punojm\u00eb n\u00eb litarin fiksues, t\u2019i bartim tendat tona, ta b\u00ebjm\u00eb ushqimin, do t\u00eb jet\u00eb v\u00ebshtir\u00eb, por do t\u00eb jet\u00eb nj\u00eb nivel tjet\u00ebr, di\u00e7ka q\u00eb v\u00ebrtet kam dashur ta b\u00ebj q\u00eb nga fillimi, por nuk i kam pasur lidhjet (derisa fillova t\u00eb ngjitesha n\u00eb majat 8.000 met\u00ebrshe\u201d.<\/p>\n
A mund t\u00eb flas\u00ebsh p\u00ebr v\u00ebshtir\u00ebsit\u00eb teknike t\u00eb k\u00ebsaj rruge?<\/p>\n
\u201cRruga Kukuczka nuk \u00ebsht\u00eb ngjitur kurr\u00eb m\u00eb par\u00eb dhe konsiderohet si nj\u00eb prej rrug\u00ebve m\u00eb t\u00eb v\u00ebshtira n\u00eb Himalaje. Sidomos segmenti i fundit, 300-400 metra ngjitesh vet\u00ebm vertikalisht. \u00cbsht\u00eb po ashtu me shk\u00ebmbinj, gj\u00eb q\u00eb e b\u00ebn shum\u00eb m\u00eb t\u00eb komplikuar, sepse \u00ebsht\u00eb ngjitje e kombinuar\u201d.<\/p>\n
\u201cRreziku nga orteku \u00ebsht\u00eb shum\u00eb i lart\u00eb, po ashtu edhe nga r\u00ebnia e gur\u00ebve. T\u00eb gjith\u00eb njer\u00ebzit q\u00eb kan\u00eb vdekur (n\u00eb k\u00ebt\u00eb rrug\u00eb), kan\u00eb vdekur ose nga orteku ose nga r\u00ebnia e gur\u00ebve. Her\u00ebn e fundit q\u00eb Hong e provoi k\u00ebt\u00eb rrug\u00eb, ai p\u00ebr pak sa nuk e humbi jet\u00ebn p\u00ebr shkak t\u00eb nj\u00eb orteku\u201d.<\/p>\n
\u201cP\u00ebr t\u2019u ngjitur n\u00eb maje, na duhet nj\u00eb dritare e mir\u00eb, mot i mir\u00eb p\u00ebr pes\u00eb dit\u00eb. Duhet t\u00eb jemi shum\u00eb me fat p\u00ebr t\u00eb pasur pes\u00eb dit\u00eb rresht mot t\u00eb mir\u00eb\u201d.<\/p>\n
Ekspedita drejt ngjitjes n\u00eb an\u00ebn jugore t\u00eb Lhotse do t\u00eb filloj\u00eb gjat\u00eb k\u00ebtij muaji dhe do t\u00eb zgjas\u00eb deri n\u00eb muajin maj. T\u00eb rejat do t\u00eb publikohen n\u00eb faqen e alpinistit jugkorean, Hong Sung Taek.<\/p>\n
Lhotse \u00ebsht\u00eb mali i kat\u00ebrt m\u00eb i lart\u00eb n\u00eb bot\u00eb (8.516 metra), pas Mount Everest, K2 dhe Kangchenjunga. Duke qen\u00eb nj\u00eb pjes\u00eb e masivit t\u00eb Everestit, Lhotse lidhet me maj\u00ebn e fundit p\u00ebrmes qaf\u00ebs jugore. N\u00eb gjuh\u00ebn tibetiane, kuptimi i Lhotse \u00ebsht\u00eb \u201cmaja jugore\u201d. Ky mal ndodhet n\u00eb kufi nd\u00ebrmjet Tibetit t\u00eb Kin\u00ebs dhe regjionit Khumbu t\u00eb Nepalit. \/Telegrafi\/<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"
Revista Rock and Ice, e cila \u00ebsht\u00eb e dedikuar p\u00ebr alpinizmin, i ka kushtuar nj\u00eb artikull t\u00eb posa\u00e7\u00ebm alpinistes Uta Ibrahimi. N\u00eb artikullin e publikuar thuhet se ajo \u00ebsht\u00eb shqiptarja e par\u00eb nga Kosova q\u00eb \u00ebsht\u00eb ngjitur n\u00eb maj\u00ebn e Everestit dhe tash ka nj\u00eb projekt t\u00eb ri: Ajo do t\u00eb tentoj\u00eb t\u00eb ngjitet n\u00eb […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":36019,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[5],"tags":[],"class_list":{"0":"post-36017","1":"post","2":"type-post","3":"status-publish","4":"format-standard","5":"has-post-thumbnail","7":"category-lajme"},"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/radiostargjilan.com\/web\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/36017","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/radiostargjilan.com\/web\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/radiostargjilan.com\/web\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/radiostargjilan.com\/web\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/radiostargjilan.com\/web\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=36017"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/radiostargjilan.com\/web\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/36017\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/radiostargjilan.com\/web\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/36019"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/radiostargjilan.com\/web\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=36017"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/radiostargjilan.com\/web\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=36017"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/radiostargjilan.com\/web\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=36017"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}